Its summer time and the climbing aint easy
I had the coolest day climbing yesterday, I went along to this new crag about an hour outside Melbourne called Weribee Gorge with Belinda from SA and Nick who's from Belgium. Man I love Australia, the day before it was a real cool and misty rainy Irish day so got some Christmass shopping and almost felt like I was in Dublin without a woolen hat and big jacket, but next day when I woke up it was sunny and everything was bone dry and ready for climbing :D We had such a fun day climbing in the sun and I remembered sun tan lotion so got a bit of a tan too. This it the way December is supposed to be.
I hoped onto this 22 um 6c+ and flashed it!!! Thats the hardest grade I've flashed :D Funny thing is that the route is called Tina, the ballerina from Pasedina, so I think my technique is getting better, its a really balancy crimpy use your feet route. Belinda was thrilled when she made it further on top rope than any of the other guys did. Then after a rest I hoped onto this 23 right next to it and its such a fun route, [sorry to the non climbers, this makes sence if you know climbing jargen, I'm not going nuts ;) ] crimps crimps crimps, flake undercling crrimps crimps, pinch the arete, I'm not pumped, yip, crimps, not pumped, clip crimp crimp and clip, ok this is sustained, where is the crux, clip almost at the top, oh yeah nice smear, then CRUX!, okay reachy bear hug with crimp round the corner and pinch the arete and stand up on this tiny foot hold? to reach past this sloper that (NO! you're just imagining being pumped) you thought was a jug to this okay hold, forget the gear is 2/3m below now find this horible flat hold on the arete and work my, oh crap, "TAKE ME!!!!" Winger of note and 6m later I'm looking up going, DAMIT I was only 1m from flashing a 7a!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good planning and fantastic belaying meant that all I got was some air ;) so hopefully I'll be back again next week to do it properly. Belinda you're an awesome belayer!
I hoped onto this 22 um 6c+ and flashed it!!! Thats the hardest grade I've flashed :D Funny thing is that the route is called Tina, the ballerina from Pasedina, so I think my technique is getting better, its a really balancy crimpy use your feet route. Belinda was thrilled when she made it further on top rope than any of the other guys did. Then after a rest I hoped onto this 23 right next to it and its such a fun route, [sorry to the non climbers, this makes sence if you know climbing jargen, I'm not going nuts ;) ] crimps crimps crimps, flake undercling crrimps crimps, pinch the arete, I'm not pumped, yip, crimps, not pumped, clip crimp crimp and clip, ok this is sustained, where is the crux, clip almost at the top, oh yeah nice smear, then CRUX!, okay reachy bear hug with crimp round the corner and pinch the arete and stand up on this tiny foot hold? to reach past this sloper that (NO! you're just imagining being pumped) you thought was a jug to this okay hold, forget the gear is 2/3m below now find this horible flat hold on the arete and work my, oh crap, "TAKE ME!!!!" Winger of note and 6m later I'm looking up going, DAMIT I was only 1m from flashing a 7a!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good planning and fantastic belaying meant that all I got was some air ;) so hopefully I'll be back again next week to do it properly. Belinda you're an awesome belayer!
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