Good Day at the Office
SMALL CRIMPS!!!!!! climbing here is great, its bolted and crimpy, I know how to climb this.
More my style than climbing vertical cracks on trad gear, although it is a pretty cool sense
of adventure climbing in Ireland, I am a sportsman at heart, and love pushing myself and I find it hard doing that on trad routes.
Climbed a cool 21 to warm up, small crimps all 20 odd metres, fantastic.
Next day went down to badens lookout crag and decided to just climb lots of really easy stuff to
warm up and get used to climbing on crimps again. Did 8 routes in the day.
The second last route I did that day was a 21, awesome route, climb up laying back on slopers to get to the first bolt, and then traverse out right with absolutly nothing for your feet to get to this arete. Then you find the tiniest of impressions for your left foot and just make your right foot stick to the rock somewhere (I love my new climbing shoes) and rech for this small flat corner with your right hand while you try clip the rope into the next draw, all the time convincing yourself that your right foot has actually been super glued to that rock and that your pumped right arm can hold onto that flat ledge while you balance there for another few seconds with the rope in your mouth so that you can pull up enough rope to reach the next draw above you and have a plan in your head so that if that right foot does actually figure out that you havn't used any super glue and you do fall the 2m to the last draw you dodge the tree that thinks its a spotter below you.
Just Magic, I loved it!
I calmed my nerves clipped the draw and then made my to the top of the route to admire the view from the top. Looks realy awesome fantastic spot to climb, looking at the route I wanted to climb it from the first time I saw it, sitting there soaking up the sunshine, with the valley dropping out to the right and all the Eucalypstus trees hanging below
That was route number 7 of the day and I still felt good, I must definatly be getting fitter, all that endurance training before I left helped a lot. Julie-Ann had told me about this 23 (7a) that I would love, its steep, its overhanging and its reachy. This is a strange feeling, climbing with Sean and Jullie-Ann who are both shorter than me, I've become the tall climber, I'm used to climbing with Roland and Stephen in SA where I'm the short climber and can't reach
straight up for the good holds and have to use the small intermediate ones.
Scheme of Things is another cool route, I'm really enjoying climbing in the blue mountains. You start off climbing this overhang and then get up to this massive jug rail then you have to reach right, lock off on this tiny crip and then reach high up left for this other tiny crip, then clip from the good hold, gaston on this sloper with tiny little spikes and move up for another good hold. I figured out all the holds on my second go, and decided to call it a day, eight routes, good day at the office. Next day I came back to try get Scheme of Things clean, but was just too tired, 3 days climbing in a row is hard work! I made the sensible decision and took a rest day, but all I could think about was getting that route, I was really phsyced to get it. If I got that route it would have been my third 7a!
Next day got up and went down there, and flew up it on my second go, amazing the difference a rest day makes. Next on the list was a 24 called Goosebumps, really pumpy overhanging route, I still felt good after getting Scheme of Things so hoped on that one next, it was fun climbing that route, Me, Sean and a Josh, a local guy from Sydney, were working it. Sean was the first to get it and by the end of the day I had got it as well, Josh wasn't in much of a hurry to get it as we were and decided to save it for another day, but came really close. I think that could be my best day so far this trip a 23 and a 25 in the same day, I'm really impressed with that.
More my style than climbing vertical cracks on trad gear, although it is a pretty cool sense
of adventure climbing in Ireland, I am a sportsman at heart, and love pushing myself and I find it hard doing that on trad routes.
Climbed a cool 21 to warm up, small crimps all 20 odd metres, fantastic.
Next day went down to badens lookout crag and decided to just climb lots of really easy stuff to
warm up and get used to climbing on crimps again. Did 8 routes in the day.
The second last route I did that day was a 21, awesome route, climb up laying back on slopers to get to the first bolt, and then traverse out right with absolutly nothing for your feet to get to this arete. Then you find the tiniest of impressions for your left foot and just make your right foot stick to the rock somewhere (I love my new climbing shoes) and rech for this small flat corner with your right hand while you try clip the rope into the next draw, all the time convincing yourself that your right foot has actually been super glued to that rock and that your pumped right arm can hold onto that flat ledge while you balance there for another few seconds with the rope in your mouth so that you can pull up enough rope to reach the next draw above you and have a plan in your head so that if that right foot does actually figure out that you havn't used any super glue and you do fall the 2m to the last draw you dodge the tree that thinks its a spotter below you.
Just Magic, I loved it!
I calmed my nerves clipped the draw and then made my to the top of the route to admire the view from the top. Looks realy awesome fantastic spot to climb, looking at the route I wanted to climb it from the first time I saw it, sitting there soaking up the sunshine, with the valley dropping out to the right and all the Eucalypstus trees hanging below
That was route number 7 of the day and I still felt good, I must definatly be getting fitter, all that endurance training before I left helped a lot. Julie-Ann had told me about this 23 (7a) that I would love, its steep, its overhanging and its reachy. This is a strange feeling, climbing with Sean and Jullie-Ann who are both shorter than me, I've become the tall climber, I'm used to climbing with Roland and Stephen in SA where I'm the short climber and can't reach
straight up for the good holds and have to use the small intermediate ones.
Scheme of Things is another cool route, I'm really enjoying climbing in the blue mountains. You start off climbing this overhang and then get up to this massive jug rail then you have to reach right, lock off on this tiny crip and then reach high up left for this other tiny crip, then clip from the good hold, gaston on this sloper with tiny little spikes and move up for another good hold. I figured out all the holds on my second go, and decided to call it a day, eight routes, good day at the office. Next day I came back to try get Scheme of Things clean, but was just too tired, 3 days climbing in a row is hard work! I made the sensible decision and took a rest day, but all I could think about was getting that route, I was really phsyced to get it. If I got that route it would have been my third 7a!
Next day got up and went down there, and flew up it on my second go, amazing the difference a rest day makes. Next on the list was a 24 called Goosebumps, really pumpy overhanging route, I still felt good after getting Scheme of Things so hoped on that one next, it was fun climbing that route, Me, Sean and a Josh, a local guy from Sydney, were working it. Sean was the first to get it and by the end of the day I had got it as well, Josh wasn't in much of a hurry to get it as we were and decided to save it for another day, but came really close. I think that could be my best day so far this trip a 23 and a 25 in the same day, I'm really impressed with that.
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